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Each summer I am asked by people what I think of the London restaurant scene and which places I would recommend.
I had no difficulty answering this question in the days when I went to London four or five times a year. But last month marked my return to London after a year so you will see that I have been out of touch.
A few general observations. London is expensive when it comes to eating out. And it probably has the most expensive taxis in the world. New York is cheaper and generally, with the exception of a few places (Per Se or Masa, perhaps), cheaper than London. Plus the taxis are more reasonably priced.
If you want a gastronomic holiday, then New York is the place to go. One example of this superiority is the way in which London restaurants have struggled in New York when they tried to open branches. Le Caprice did not last. Hakkasan has not had a huge impact. And so on. In comparison, New York restaurants thrive in London: Nobu, Sushi Samba, Bar Boulud and now Balthazar.
Balthazar: When Brit Keith McNally opened his take on a massive Paris brasserie in New York it was an instant hit. New Yorkers loved the loud, buzzy air and McNally managed an ingenious mix of brasserie staples with more American dishes (the hamburger, for instance) on the menu. I went to the New York Balthazar a couple of months ago and though there were more tourists and wannabes in the room than before, it still worked.
Sadly, what seemed buzzy in New York seems crowded and slapdash in London. Balthazar is packed, tables are difficult to score and there are always people waiting. The greeters are just as polite and professional as in New York and servers are cheerful.
But two things let down the London Balthazar. The first is that tables seem too close together and for some reason, that doesn’t work in London. The restaurant seems cramped rather than rocking. And second, though the food is not as bad as some critics have suggested, it is hardly memorable. Even the bread is not up to New York standards.
If you want a buzzy place with good food go to one of the restaurants run by Jeremy King and Chris Corbin.
Which brings us to the Delaunay.
| "The most interesting development in London food scene over the last few years has been the growth of excellent tapas-style Spanish restaurants." |
The Delaunay: Corbin and King are the masters of the casual restaurant scene in London. They made the Ivy, J Sheekey and Le Caprice famous before selling out. (The brands are now owned by rag-trade millionaire Richard Caring). Then, they opened the Wolseley, still one of the my favourite London restaurants which is modeled on a restaurant at an Austrian railway station (or so Jeremy King once told me) and is quite wonderful with great buzz, gracious service and very good food.
After a brief mis-step with St. Alban, they opened in quick succession, the Delaunay, which is like the Wolseley but with a middle-Europe (i.e. Jewish) theme, and Brasserie Zedel which is the same kind of place but with French influences and lower prices.
I love their restaurants which, to me, epitomize what London is good at. This time, however, I thought they were slipping. Service at the Delaunay was slapdash and the famous dessert of Viennese Souffle was burnt. They made amends, of course, and took the soufflé off the bill but one expects better of Corbin and King.
But even with the bad service I’ll take any of their restaurants over Balthazar.
Les Deux Salons: Yet another French-style brasserie, this newish restaurant comes from the people behind two of my favourite London French casual dining places, Arbutus and Wild Honey both of which have Michelin stars.
It is more touristy than its siblings and that shows in the service and the food. It is worth it if you are in Covent Garden area but otherwise I would recommend you go to Arbutus or Wild Honey.
The Opera Tavern: The most interesting development in London food scene over the last few years has been the growth of excellent tapas-style Spanish restaurants. The Hart brothers run the excellent Fino and the tiny but astonishingly good Barrafina. And then, there are Dehesa, Brindisa Tapas and many others.
The Opera Tavern, on the site of an old Theatreland boozer, is one I hadn’t been to before. The downstairs room is a lively bar while upstairs there is a notionally more formal dining room. The food seems to be much the same though.
I ate my way through the menu and not one dish was anything less than amazing. Plus, prices are low, service is friendly and the vibe is great. Of all the restaurants I’ve eaten at in London recently, this was the most fun; and the cheapest.
I would gladly go back again. And you should try it too.
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